Oppi Untracht – Jewelry Concepts And Technology

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Автор: Oppi Untracht
Название книги: Jewelry Concepts And Technology
Формат: PDF
Тема: Ювелирное искусство, Ювелирное дело
Страницы: 1873
Качество: Изначально компьютерное, E-book

The definitive reference for jewelry makers of all levels of ability–a complete, profusely illustrated guide to design, materials, and techniques, as well as a fascinating exploration of jewelry-making throughout history.

Описание

Jewelry plays a greater role in today’s world than it ever did in the past. No more is its
use only the privilege of the wealthy, for the broadening of the social structure of
contemporary society and the burgeoning concepts of what a jewel is or can be has
made its use universal. The basic appeal of jewelry lies in the satisfaction of primitive
needs. Its use becomes a means of releasing us to fantasize about ourselves, our lives,
and our world. Because the motivations for wearing jewelry involve elemental and
eternal human concerns, and because jewelry is a portable, intimate art that can be
worn and constantly enjoyed, it is safe to assume that the use of jewelry will persist, in
one form or another for as long as the human race survives.
The jewelry with which this book is concerned is creative work made mainly by hand
technology, but the creative use of machine technology is also discussed. Many of the
pieces illustrated have been produced by independent professional jewelers, but a great
number are made by non-professional jewelers whose amazing growth in numbers is
certainly a phenomenon of our age. To realize how the field of handmade jewelry has
expanded, one has only to think of the large number of places where the techniques of
jewelry making can be learned today, as compared with the few that existed only 25
years ago. An interesting aspect of this situation is the extraordinary increase in the
involvement of women in jewelry making, illustrated by the fact that nearly half the
objects shown in this book are designed or made by women. Since most of the jewelry
produced today is for use by women, their work is of special interest as presumably it
represents a tangible expression of the kind of jewelry that contemporary women would
like to wear themselves.
There are several reasons for the growth of interest in jewelry making. Probably
foremost among them is that many people have discovered the pleasure and sense of
achievement that accompanies the activity of inventing and creating an object. It
matters little whether the motive for this activity is to pass leisure time pleasantly; to
preserve mental health through absorption in meaningful work; to enjoy the vanity of
decorating the body; to engage in a remunerative occupation that pays the rent and fills
the stomach; or to attempt to achieve approval, recognition, and fame. Regardless of
motivation, craftsmanship is the key that opens the door to the creative experience by
which each of us, on any level of capability, can realize the psychological and physical
satisfactions which our minds and bodies require. Through creative work, our lives are
also enriched in a special way—we are drawn into an involvement with a community of
our choice, and this creates the opportunity to form associations with similarly oriented
individuals. By sharing common experiences with them, any sense of isolation is
eliminated; we can grow in our own capacities while we appreciate the varied
accomplishments of others, without, however, abandoning individuality or our right to
evaluate and criticize
Jewelry making can be self-taught, but most beginners learn the necessary metal
working processes from instructors of jewelry making courses offered in universities,
schools, community centers, and even in classes established by industry for employees.
The equipment in such workshops and the quality of instruction range from barely
adequate to ideal. Even with a minimum of instruction—given a reasonable amount of
patience—a degree of experience and skill can be acquired sufficient to manipulate
simple hand tools with increasing certainty. Once the disciplines of materials and
techniques are understood and accepted, one can progress to greater challenges.
Thereafter, when working independently, as many people do, jewelry can be created in
a relatively limited home workshop using long-lasting hand tools that can be purchased
with a comparatively small investment. The money and efforts expended are more than
rewarded by the results which warm and excite the maker’s inner being. Whether they
are simple or highly evolved objects, they can be worn with pleasure, given away with
pride, or sold.

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